Well, this post is long overdue, considering I've been back in Ireland for about three weeks. But here's a recap of our five-day adventure to Germany and Austria!
We took a taxi from Maynooth to Dublin at 6:30 to catch our flight to Munich that left at 8. I couldn't sleep the whole night before, I was too antsy to start the day, so I just stayed awake, straightened my hair, cleaned my room, had two cups of tea, googled how not to look like an american, and listened to a lot of ingrid michaelson and beyonce (you know, to get pumped up traveling with four girls and being awesome). Ryanair was a lot less chaotic and hectic than I thought it would be, so going through security and boarding the plane was relatively harmless.
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| Marienplatz |

We finally got to Memmingen and... found out that it was about an hour and a half train ride to Munich. And when they stamped our passports, all it said was 'Memmingen,' not even Germany. Just 'Memmingen.' There was absolutely nothing in Memmingen except cheap pizza, mean Germans, and a shabby train station that looked like what i would've guessed a homeless man's bachelor pad looked like. We took the bus from the airport to the train station. It was packed. So when two old women got on, Liz and I gave up our seats. Even though there was this jerk of a guy who was taking up one seat and his bag was taking the other and he, if he were a gentlemen at all, would've gotten up and given his seats. That's when I realized Germans were not country boys.

So after trying (and failing) to communicate with the grouchy, bearded tall man-woman at the train station, we booked a train ticket to Munich, got cheap pizza, hopped on the train and fell asleep looking out the window at... rolling hills.
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| German flag! |
Needless to say, we weren't that impressed with Germany at first. Then, we got to Munich, took a left when we should've turned right, and finally were on our way (and also the last time we really got lost). We found our way to the city centre, looked around until it got dark, and then got beers at a famous beir hall where Hitler frequented (not for the beer, he didn't drink alcohol, but to socialize). He also was a vegetarian, didn't drink alcohol, or smoke. Fun fact. On our way back to the train station, we watched a demonstration take place outside the Marienplatz.
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| Drinks at Hofbräuhaus Beer Hall |
There were hundreds of armed German military and police standing guard, watching with their AKs ready to do serious work. It was overwhelming and a little scary. We didn't know what was going on, so we decided not to be obviously tourist and definitely not American. Of course, Becca tried to get a closer look (really to take a picture - dumb. American. tourist. ha) and a German police office yelled something mean at her and she backed. the. eff. up. in a hurry, too. Because they don't play. He legitimately looked ready to beat her. And all these German militia were about 6'4", looking like UFC fighters with the most hateful looks on their faces. Men you don't want to mess with! So we quickly walked away after that.
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| Neuschwanstein Castle |
We caught the latest train out of Munich to Füssen. Thankfully I had done research before the trip and knew Bavaria pretty well. Leaving for a random small-ish town in the middle of the night, though, was a little bit unplanned. As our train went on for a couple hours, getting darker and darker, not only did Liz and Cat get nervous, but I was beginning to doubt myself, too.


Finally, the last stop, our stop, was the only one well-lit, with a few people, not dodgy-looking, around, at 11 p.m. We found a gelato shop with, luckily, a map of the city and two of the nicest Germans that knew bits of English (compared to the two words I knew in German, none of which appropriate) and were able to give us the name of a hostel. After the first was closed, we kept walking and came to a second. The Bed and Breakfast was a little pricey, but still able to work around our budget. It ended up being perfect. We were able to take showers, have a luxurious night's sleep and wake up to a healthy German breakfast.

The plan was to visit Neuschwanstein, the castle that inspired Walt Disney's Sleeping Beauty. To be honest, I didn't think we would have time, even though it was something I was really wanting to see. But we got up around seven, and the rest just worked perfectly. We paid four euros for a round-trip ticket to the castle, about five miles away. Once we were there, we could either hike an hour up the paved side of a mountain or spend 30 euros (each) to take a bus. Since we were young, eager, and cheap, we decided to hike it. So we hitched our 40-pound backpacks, pumped ourselves up and started our hike around 9:00. It was long. It got hot. But it was so incredibly worth it. The pictures don't do the view justice at all. It was gorgeous. GORGEOUS. Ah, I wish I had words. The mountains with the castle and everything. So worth it.
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| Innsbruck |
After we hiked back down the mountain, took a bus back into Füssen, we held our breath that we could use our Eurail pass to get into Austria (the ticket we paid one price for and were able to travel all around Austria with). That ended up working out, so we took it into Innsbruck, a long train ride, but with amazing views of the Bavarian and Austrian Alpine Mountains along the ride, so well worth it! Not to mention we had Nutella and wheat crackers for our trip, so it was a great ride.
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| Stiegl, made in Salzburg |
We got into Innsbruck, a city surrounded on all sides by the Alps. It was spectacular! So gorgeous, I couldn't believe my eyes. Each way I turned, you could see a view of the mountains. Glorious! I am convinced I have to live in or around the mountains now. We stayed in Innsbruck for dinner after walking around the town and then decided to just take a train to Vienna. We figured it would be easier to find a cheaper hostel in a bigger city. We had dinner at this small place that wasn't crowded or too expensive, but had a great view of the city. I had a Stiegl, which is a beer brewed in Salzburg. It was pretty good, I enjoyed it. I chatted with the owner for a little while about Austrian beers. He ended up being a really nice guy with decent English and when we were about to leave, he gave me the glass!
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| Karlskirch |
We caught the two-hour train and headed to Wien (Vienna). I jotted down the directions to a hostel and we caught a couple inner-city trains to our stop. Vienna, since it was a bigger city, had a couple stops that seemed a bit dodgy. But, luckily, we were right on the money and found it with no problem. It was a chain of hostels, so it was really nice with a ton of people in their 20s just traveling. After we paid for our rooms, we got free drink tickets. Since we had been going nonstop, we decided we would just have a glass of wine and then off to bed and get up early the next day to explore Vienna.
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| Belvedere |
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| Beethoven's grave |
We woke up, had breakfast, grabbed a map and circled a couple places we really wanted to see. Then, we just started taking the train. Vienna is so amazing! It has some of the most incredible architecture I've ever seen and is a renowned musical place.
Everywhere we went, people were playing beautiful renditions of classical music by Brahms, Mozart, Beethoven, Schubert, and more - all men from (or who spent the most of their life in) Austria!
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| Schonbrunn Palace |
I don't know too much about classical music, but I know that it makes a beautiful sound and I was in the presence of great men. So we toured the city, going to some really cool places, visiting the graves of these world famous composers and having the most amazing time while walking our feet off. It was great! We were able to see most all of what we wanted and afterwards we met Becca's friend, Lisa, for dinner. She turned out to be so sweet and took us around the city and to a genuinely Austrian place. I ended up getting wienerschnitzel (it was delicious, duh, had to get it) and feeling supes Austrian. Afterwards, we got gelato and sat down for a good chat, then went back to the same hostel and stayed a second night.

I loved Vienna, it was definitely one of the greatest cities I've been to.
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| Opera house |
OH! I forgot to say that, while running to catch our train, Becca and I made it, but the doors closed before Liz and Cat could get on the train. It was probably the funniest/scariest part of Vienna. It was something you really just have to witness to be able to laugh as hard as I am thinking about it. Thank goodness Liz was listening to me rambling on about where we were going while I was looking for the right train. But as we stood there, Becca and I inside the train and Liz and Cat looking in, it was crazy. Cat looked oblivious (as always), Becca was punching the button so the doors would open (resistance was futile), Liz was looking straight at me, like she was about to pass out (there were definite tears popping up) and I was screaming the name of the train stop that they needed to get off (praying that Liz understood what I was saying and had been paying attention earlier).
So Becca and I sat down, took a couple breaths, then burst out laughing. And laughed all the way until our stop, the second to last. We sat down on the benches in the train terminal and just waited, still laughing at each of our reaction's while the doors closed. Finally, the next train, Liz (her eyes puffy, she still was trying to catch her breath) and Cat (still looking oblivious) got out and then we were all able to sigh with relief and then laugh about it some more.


On Tuesday, we woke up, had breakfast, checked out of the hostel and headed to Linz. It was cold and dreary. And most definitely sobering. Because Tuesday was the day we visited Mauthausen-Gusen Concentration Camp. It was one of the main things we wanted to do (Becca and Liz being history major buffs, and I've always been really interested in the Holocaust).
We'd originally wanted to do an entire World War tour - see the beaches of Normandy, go to Poland to Auschwitz, see it all. But when that didn't work out, we knew that we were going to find a camp in Austria or Germany to visit. We had two months to prepare ourselves. But you can never really prepare yourself for something like this..
"As a resident of many camps, I can say that Guzen was the worst. This is not to say that the conditions at the other camps were not dreadful. Compared to Guzen, however, one might almost say that those camps were paradises. The proof of this might be that Guzen was one of the least known camps. This was not because it was smaller than the others - it might even have been the largest. It was unknown simply because very few of the tens of thousand of prisoners sent there remained alive to tell the story of its horrors."
- Rabbi RAV YECHEZKEL HARFENES (when back to Auschwitz) in "BeKaf HaKela" (Slingshot of Hell)
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| International Remembrance |
Even decades later, it haunts you, the Holocaust. We got to the train station and had to take a taxi about five miles through winding countryside to get to the camp, in the middle of nowhere. The walk that prisoners took, from that same train station to the same camp. We got a map and headphones, took a deep breath, and started our walking tour around the camp. Looking at the front gate, where so many thousands of people entered and fewer ever came out, it takes your breath away. And you don't even realize the enormity of it. Or maybe you do, but you're so struck, you have that feeling inside your gut. And your heart hurts. Bitterness, hate, pity, guilt, sadness, despair. You feel everything in a matter of seconds, standing at that gate.
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| From crematorium to memorial |

Gates are symbolic. The gates that guard heaven and hell. Gates used to keep men in or make sure they stays out. Those gates that are pearly and golden and the others that are rusted, black, cracked. Symbolic entrances into new worlds. Gate and threshold. Passages. Life and death. One world and the next.
Once we stepped past, there was no more green countryside, no more picturesque Austria. There was hardly anyone there, so when we walked inside the main courtyard, it was deserted, barren. The rest of the tour, we just had our headphones in, just being there. Walking, silence, standing, silence, more walking. We saw the prisoners would all stand upon coming to the camp, disrobe, be beaten, embarrassed, harassed, have to sleep all night, dehumanized. We saw the gas chamber, the crematoriums, the bunks, the barbed wire.. we saw everything. It's hard to write about, much less re-visualize. And there are never words that seem to do enough.



After we left the camp, we were tired and it was rainy, cold and wet, so we just took a train to Salzburg, found our hostel and went to sleep early. The next morning, we were schedule for a Sound of Music tour. We had all been looking forward to it, but the best part was that it was Sing-A-Long! And the only tour of the Sound of Music in all of Austria (because, since it's an American film, only filmed in Austria, about an Austrian family, a lot of Austrians don't really know what it is). Our tour guide was incredible! She was witty, charming, with a plethora of terrible jokes told in the most endearing way you had to smile to yourself and give her props.
The tour first took us around the city (unfortunately no stops in Salzburg to take pictures of Nonneberg Abbey or anymore, but I got a few shots from the moving bus) and then into the countryside (where most of the movie was filmed).


It was a perfect day (we were seriously the most blessed with the weather, the whole time it was just glorious) and we even met some other Americans on the bus who were studying in Ireland, also, so we had a great time chit-chatting at the back with them. But we went around to Salzburg, singing the sound of music, and the views were just out of this world. I wish we could've taken a gondola to the tops of a couple mountains, though, but I'm happy nonetheless.

After spending the day on the tour, we came back to Salzburg and went straight back to Munich. Once there, we decided to reward ourselves on having the most amazing trip, rarely getting lost and everything just seeming to fall perfectly in place. We went to dinner and had a few cocktails and just went back to the hostel bar, met some lovely people, had a great night, went to sleep and got up the next day to catch a train to Nowheresville, Germany and catch our plane back to Dublin. Everything went off without a hitch. And we ended up having such a wonderful trip!